Oil Pan (tighten inside out in 3 steps) - 8. Lower Block Bolts (there are 16, inside out) - 22 The biggest difference though, is the Honda MTF is a semi-synthetic. Im tempted to try the Honda MTF since the Kinematic Viscosity is closer to the Pentosin that many people love for these cars. My S2k drives great, gearshift, clutch, throttle response really smooth. Ive read that the transmission is a Toyota unit, not a Subaru, and it more akin to the unit in the Honda S2000. 9.5k for a car that age is very steep even if it's mint IMHO. This is not a complete list, but as much as I could handle.Ĭylinder Head Bolts (inside out) - 22 + 90* (or 22 + 180* if new bolts)ĭriveshaft Bolts (Allen, 6 per side) - 24įront Lower Arm Flange Bolt (to set caster) - 58įuel Pulsation Damper - 16 (from feed line to fuel rail) Clutch shouldn't be doing that so i'd be a bit concerned.
Dont forget to tighten some bolts in an inside out pattern and multiple stages (such as head bolts, oil pan bolts, or lower block bolts just to name a few). It just doesn’t feel lightweight and nimble, which I. Also, due to the weight, it feels surprisingly tank-like, and the turning circle is terrible I mean really bad. and for a long while I had my heart set on the Honda S2000.
they are all listed in lbf-ft and if says + xx* then tighten to the initial torque spec and tighten another xx degrees. Clutch at 180 000km, and the friction material was still alright it just broke from a quick gear shift. S2000 AP1 Torque Specs for various bolts (in alpha order)
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